DUBAI, United Arab Emirates — In the years since Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman catapulted to power, it has been hard to find a controversy in the Middle East that doesn’t somehow involve the 37-year-old heir to the throne. Now he’s pivoting to his next audacious plan: Giving peace a chance.
Leon Neal, Pool via AP
Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman of Saudi Arabia takes his seat ahead of a working lunch at the G20 Summit on Nov. 15, 2022, in Nusa Dua, Bali, Indonesia.
The moves toward reaching a détente with Iran, reestablishing ties to Syria and ending the kingdom’s yearslong war in Yemen could extricate Prince Mohammed from some of the thorniest regional issues he faces.
Whether it succeeds will have profound impacts on the wider Middle East and on his expansive plans to reshape the kingdom away from oil and further into his image. Failure threatens not only his impending rule over a nation crucial to global energy supplies, but a wider region shaken by years of tensions, inflamed in part by his decisions.
Prince Mohammed’s rise accelerated in 2015 after his father, King Salman, appointed him as deputy crown prince. That year saw Mohammed, also the country’s defense minister at the time, plunge Saudi Arabia into a military campaign in Yemen, a civil war that grew into a regional proxy battle still continuing today. Riyadh supports Yemen’s exiled government against the Iranian-backed Houthi rebels who hold Sanaa, the country’s capital.
The tensions with Iran, at the time still in a nuclear deal with world powers, escalated with Saudi Arabia’s execution of a prominent Shiite cleric in 2016. Protesters stormed Saudi diplomatic posts in Iran, and Riyadh broke off ties to Tehran.
In 2017, Saudi Arabia joined three other Arab nations in boycotting Qatar, which maintains ties to Iran. The same year, the prince made what appeared to be a heavy-handed attempt to break Iranian-backed Hezbollah’s domination of Lebanon’s government by inviting Lebanon’s prime minister to the kingdom and then allegedly forcing him to announce his resignation. The attempt failed and Saudi Arabia’s influence in Lebanon has been diminished ever since.
Prince Mohammed days later launched a purported anti-corruption campaign that saw the Saudi elite locked in the Ritz Carlton until they handed over billions in assets. The slaying of Washington Post columnist Jamal Khashoggi at the Saudi Consulate in Istanbul, believed by the United States and others to be at the prince’s orders, followed in 2018.
Bandar Aljaloud, Saudi Royal Palace via AP
Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan, left, hugs Saudi Arabia's Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman before a meeting April 28, 2022, in Jiddah, Saudi Arabia.
But an attack that followed likely changed the prince’s calculations. In September 2019, a barrage of cruise missiles and drones struck at the heart of Saudi Arabia’s oil industry, temporarily halving production.
While the Houthis initially claimed the assault, the West and Saudi Arabia later blamed the attacks on Tehran. Independent experts also linked the weapons to Iran. Though Tehran still denies carrying out the attack, even United Nations investigators said that “the Houthi forces are unlikely to be responsible for the attack.”
Saudi Arabia never retaliated publicly for the attack, nor did the U.S. under President Donald Trump as the longtime security guarantor for the Gulf Arab states. That, as well as America’s later chaotic 2021 withdrawal from Afghanistan, led to a reconsideration in the region of how much to rely on U.S. promises.
Meanwhile, Saudi Arabia maintained a close relationship with Russia as part of the OPEC+ group. The organization’s oil production cuts, even as Moscow’s war on Ukraine boosted energy prices, angered President Joe Biden and American lawmakers. China, emerging from the coronavirus pandemic, also wants to secure its supply of Saudi oil.
Yue Yuewei, Xinhua via AP
Chinese President Xi Jinping meets with Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman at the royal palace Dec. 8, 2022, in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Both Russia and China offer Saudi Arabia and Prince Mohammed the cachet of being respected by the world’s great powers without the persistent human rights concerns of the West. Prince Mohammed has hosted and spoken by phone with both Chinese President Xi Jinping and Russia’s Vladimir Putin.
The Chinese-mediated deal on the kingdom reestablishing ties with Iran also provides Prince Mohammed with a new opportunity to show the U.S. that others can shape Mideast politics. It also offers a needed lull to allow the prince to instead focus on his planned $500 billion futuristic desert smart city project called Neom in the kingdom’s northwest, and the Mukaab in Riyadh — a 523-yard-high cube-shaped mini-city full of holograms and entertainment venues — to anchor a new downtown in the Saudi capital, likely to cost billions more if completed.
A lull in tensions is desperately sought by Iran as well, particularly in the wake of the Mahsa Amini protests that represent one of the greatest challenges to its theocracy since the chaotic years after the 1979 Islamic Revolution. U.S. sanctions over Tehran’s collapsed nuclear deal also still choke Iran’s economy.
For Prince Mohammed, the time must have appeared right to make the move. Already, Saudi Arabia led efforts to reestablish ties to Qatar in 2021. Easing tensions with Iran may provide him the avenue to finally fully pull out of the Yemen war.
Still, Prince Mohammed instructing Saudi officials to sit down with Iranian counterparts to reopen embassies represents a dramatic change for a leader who in 2018 said: “I believe the Iranian supreme leader makes Hitler look good.”
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Analysis: Saudi prince pivots to peace after years of war
I didn't know how it would feel being a very white, very blond woman surrounded by strangers that share a culture unlike my own. I even worried I would be treated harshly when I arrived, or that I would feel threatened or uneasy walking or dining out without a hijab or the long, flowing robe Saudi women wear.
However, my arrival served as an excellent reminder of something I already knew. People are people wherever you go, and Saudis are very much like everyone else around the world — happy, friendly and too busy with their own lives to worry about what you're doing.
As I visited Riyadh's striking hotels and landmarks, the winding streets of historic Jeddah, shopping malls and elsewhere, people smiled widely at me or didn't look at me at all. Random women showed me their Instagram accounts on their phones, and people in shops were eager to draw me in for a sale.
A stranger in an antique store insisted I take a ring with me as a gift for visiting his country, all while beaming with pride. Someone in Jeddah handed me a cold bottle of water in the sweltering heat for no reason at all.
At one point during the trip, I noticed my private messages on Twitter were absolutely blowing up. This shocked me at first until I took the time to read them.
While a few Saudis politely invited me to convert to Islam, dozens of others asked me to meet them for dinner or tea. I didn't feel comfortable doing so considering the circumstances, but it felt very real and genuine.
I didn't know how it would feel being a very white, very blond woman surrounded by strangers that share a culture unlike my own. I even worried I would be treated harshly when I arrived, or that I would feel threatened or uneasy walking or dining out without a hijab or the long, flowing robe Saudi women wear.
However, my arrival served as an excellent reminder of something I already knew. People are people wherever you go, and Saudis are very much like everyone else around the world — happy, friendly and too busy with their own lives to worry about what you're doing.
As I visited Riyadh's striking hotels and landmarks, the winding streets of historic Jeddah, shopping malls and elsewhere, people smiled widely at me or didn't look at me at all. Random women showed me their Instagram accounts on their phones, and people in shops were eager to draw me in for a sale.
A stranger in an antique store insisted I take a ring with me as a gift for visiting his country, all while beaming with pride. Someone in Jeddah handed me a cold bottle of water in the sweltering heat for no reason at all.
At one point during the trip, I noticed my private messages on Twitter were absolutely blowing up. This shocked me at first until I took the time to read them.
While a few Saudis politely invited me to convert to Islam, dozens of others asked me to meet them for dinner or tea. I didn't feel comfortable doing so considering the circumstances, but it felt very real and genuine.
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Analysis: Saudi prince pivots to peace after years of war
Speaking of the long flowing robes Saudi women wear, which are referred to as abayas, they are no longer required for foreign women visiting the country. Considering I visited Saudi Arabia on the day this news was shared in 2019, I brought an abaya with me but quickly packed it away in my luggage.
Women who visit today only need to meet the same dress code as men, which requires conservative attire and covered knees and shoulders. During my visit, I dressed as I normally do, wearing long dresses with light sweaters along with pants and tops. I never covered my head, and I never felt out of place.
Speaking of the long flowing robes Saudi women wear, which are referred to as abayas, they are no longer required for foreign women visiting the country. Considering I visited Saudi Arabia on the day this news was shared in 2019, I brought an abaya with me but quickly packed it away in my luggage.
Women who visit today only need to meet the same dress code as men, which requires conservative attire and covered knees and shoulders. During my visit, I dressed as I normally do, wearing long dresses with light sweaters along with pants and tops. I never covered my head, and I never felt out of place.
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Analysis: Saudi prince pivots to peace after years of war
Dreamstime/Dreamstime/TNS
Gender segregation is probably the most noticeable cultural difference in Saudi Arabia, and it can be absolutely jarring. While the country has ended the use of separate restaurant entrances for men and women, the separation of sexes is still the norm even when not required.
As an example, men and women go through separate security lines in Saudi airports, and women are moved through last. I had a business-class flight home from Jeddah to New York City, which normally includes early boarding, but I was one of the last people on the plane.
One of the hotels I stayed in also had a men-only pool and a men's spa, but no facilities like these for female guests.
This should change — and it is changing — in real time in Saudi Arabia. However, change takes time, and visitors should know they will encounter some gender segregation before they go.
Dreamstime/Dreamstime/TNS
Gender segregation is probably the most noticeable cultural difference in Saudi Arabia, and it can be absolutely jarring. While the country has ended the use of separate restaurant entrances for men and women, the separation of sexes is still the norm even when not required.
As an example, men and women go through separate security lines in Saudi airports, and women are moved through last. I had a business-class flight home from Jeddah to New York City, which normally includes early boarding, but I was one of the last people on the plane.
One of the hotels I stayed in also had a men-only pool and a men's spa, but no facilities like these for female guests.
This should change — and it is changing — in real time in Saudi Arabia. However, change takes time, and visitors should know they will encounter some gender segregation before they go.
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Analysis: Saudi prince pivots to peace after years of war
Dreamstime/Dreamstime/TNS
If you love traveling off the beaten path, Saudi Arabia is definitely the place to be. The old city center of Jeddah is captivating with its uniquely designed antique balconies, ancient sidewalks and curated shops selling everything from spices to intricately detailed clothing. The Islamic call to prayer rings loudly in the streets here five times per day, and it takes your breath away to hear it in such a historic and extraordinary place.
Meanwhile, the Kingdom Centre Tower in Riyadh is a sight to behold, and the views of the city from its skybridge are unbelievable.
Saudi Arabia is also brimming with UNESCO World Heritage sites, from the Al-Ahsa Oasis to the Al-Hijr Archaeological Site and the At-Turaif District in ad-Dir'iyah. These are all places you can see and experience before nearly anyone else you know gets there.
Dreamstime/Dreamstime/TNS
If you love traveling off the beaten path, Saudi Arabia is definitely the place to be. The old city center of Jeddah is captivating with its uniquely designed antique balconies, ancient sidewalks and curated shops selling everything from spices to intricately detailed clothing. The Islamic call to prayer rings loudly in the streets here five times per day, and it takes your breath away to hear it in such a historic and extraordinary place.
Meanwhile, the Kingdom Centre Tower in Riyadh is a sight to behold, and the views of the city from its skybridge are unbelievable.
Saudi Arabia is also brimming with UNESCO World Heritage sites, from the Al-Ahsa Oasis to the Al-Hijr Archaeological Site and the At-Turaif District in ad-Dir'iyah. These are all places you can see and experience before nearly anyone else you know gets there.
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Analysis: Saudi prince pivots to peace after years of war
While Saudi Arabia offers travel options to fit any budget, luxury travel is an absolute must here. The fact is, there are so many exquisite hotels and resorts in the Kingdom already and plenty more currently in the works.
As an example, the capital city is home to name-brand luxury hotels such as the Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh at Kingdom Centre, the Fairmont Riyadh, the Al Faisaliah Hotel and The Ritz-Carlton, Riyadh.
Other notable and must-visit resorts dotted throughout the Kingdom include the InterContinental Taif, the Dar Al Tawhid InterContinental Makkah and the Rosewood Jeddah.
Malls featuring luxury brands are also all over the place. In fact, you can find all of the top stores here including Victoria's Secret, H&M, American Eagle, Zara, Gucci, Fendi and more.
While Saudi Arabia offers travel options to fit any budget, luxury travel is an absolute must here. The fact is, there are so many exquisite hotels and resorts in the Kingdom already and plenty more currently in the works.
As an example, the capital city is home to name-brand luxury hotels such as the Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh at Kingdom Centre, the Fairmont Riyadh, the Al Faisaliah Hotel and The Ritz-Carlton, Riyadh.
Other notable and must-visit resorts dotted throughout the Kingdom include the InterContinental Taif, the Dar Al Tawhid InterContinental Makkah and the Rosewood Jeddah.
Malls featuring luxury brands are also all over the place. In fact, you can find all of the top stores here including Victoria's Secret, H&M, American Eagle, Zara, Gucci, Fendi and more.
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Analysis: Saudi prince pivots to peace after years of war
While alcohol is illegal in Saudi Arabia, that has the potential to change in the future. Either way, the alcohol ban didn't impact my trip to Saudi Arabia at all, and you shouldn't let it ruin your trip, either.
Some restaurants I dined in featured extensive drink menus with mocktails that were both delicious and fun. In one case, a waiter brought a drink cart to our table before crafting the most delicious virgin smoked mojito I have ever tasted. It was much more than a drink; it was an entire show, and every drink he made required at least six or seven steps.
Food was fresh, delicious and varied throughout the country as well, and many of the cuisines offered fit in nicely with my pescatarian diet. I enjoyed Chinese and Lebanese food in the capital city of Riyadh, plus plenty of freshly prepared seafood along the country's coast. No matter what you like to eat, you will find it here.
While alcohol is illegal in Saudi Arabia, that has the potential to change in the future. Either way, the alcohol ban didn't impact my trip to Saudi Arabia at all, and you shouldn't let it ruin your trip, either.
Some restaurants I dined in featured extensive drink menus with mocktails that were both delicious and fun. In one case, a waiter brought a drink cart to our table before crafting the most delicious virgin smoked mojito I have ever tasted. It was much more than a drink; it was an entire show, and every drink he made required at least six or seven steps.
Food was fresh, delicious and varied throughout the country as well, and many of the cuisines offered fit in nicely with my pescatarian diet. I enjoyed Chinese and Lebanese food in the capital city of Riyadh, plus plenty of freshly prepared seafood along the country's coast. No matter what you like to eat, you will find it here.
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Analysis: Saudi prince pivots to peace after years of war
Saudi Arabia is on a path toward rapid change, but it's also a conservative Kingdom with deeply rooted beliefs and cultural traditions. Some of the events I experienced there were slightly off-putting (like boarding my plane dead last), yet I didn't let it bother me or ruin my trip. I also learned a lot and gained a greater understanding of this part of the world, which is something you can't do unless you see it for yourself.
The fact is, visiting Saudi Arabia feels a lot like flying back in time to an entirely different universe with modern conveniences but Old World beliefs. I've never experienced anything else like it, and I cannot wait to visit again.
Saudi Arabia is on a path toward rapid change, but it's also a conservative Kingdom with deeply rooted beliefs and cultural traditions. Some of the events I experienced there were slightly off-putting (like boarding my plane dead last), yet I didn't let it bother me or ruin my trip. I also learned a lot and gained a greater understanding of this part of the world, which is something you can't do unless you see it for yourself.
The fact is, visiting Saudi Arabia feels a lot like flying back in time to an entirely different universe with modern conveniences but Old World beliefs. I've never experienced anything else like it, and I cannot wait to visit again.
Meanwhile, talks are ongoing on restoring ties with Syria, still under Iranian-backed President Bashar Assad after years of civil war. An upcoming Arab League summit being hosted by the kingdom in May could see Syria formally brought back into the fold. Even Lebanon, beset by crises ranging from fiscal to even time keeping, could benefit from a Saudi-Iran rapprochement.
The kingdom will also face a transition in the future. King Salman is 87. His predecessor, King Abdullah, was the oldest Saudi monarch when he died at age 90. Prince Mohammed likely will be the youngest ever to take the throne — and could have decades more to make his mark on the kingdom.
What that mark will be depends just as much on him as it does on whether he can cool the tensions he helped kindle.
