NEW YORK (AP) — When Mahlet Berhanemeskel gets back to her New York City home from her 90-minute commute, she doesn’t feel like cooking. So instead she orders food like BLTs, Cheez-Its and cookies from an app called Gorillas. It’s affordable and takes 10 minutes.
“It’s instant gratification,” she said.
Gorillas is one of several companies that venture capitalists have poured billions into in the latest pandemic delivery craze: companies that promise to get you a bottle of Tylenol, an iced coffee, hummus, a cucumber or a roll of paper towels in 30 minutes — or even 15 minutes — or less. They typically deliver from mini-warehouses in residential and commercial neighborhoods.
Experts say they are unprofitable. Bigger companies are nonetheless muscling in. And officials in European cities and in New York, which has become the U.S. launching pad, have already started complaining about how they operate, saying it’s bad for employees and residents.
“The problem I see is that quick commerce players, despite the huge valuations enjoyed and the seemingly unstoppable money flow that they get to grow, at some point they will have to find a path to profitability,” said Bain partner Marc-Andre Kamel, the co-author of a recent report on the online grocery market.

AP Photo/Tali Arbel
A worker sets to make a delivery on a bicycle in front of Gorillas' mini-warehouse in the Williamsburg section of the Brooklyn borough of New York.
Services are already shutting down. One, 1520, closed in late December, and two more, Buyk and Fridge No More, shut down in March, apparently having run out of money. Buyk’s Russian founders reportedly were not able to provide money due to restrictions put in place during the Ukraine war; it did not respond to questions. Fridge No More, in a tweet, said it was closing after two years “due to growing competition and other industry related issues.” Its founder did not answer questions.
Other delivery companies are having growing pains. Gorillas dropped its “10 minutes” delivery promise from its U.S. marketing — now it’s just “in minutes.” Gopuff recently laid off 3% of its workforce — more than 400 people.
It’s not a sustainable business model, says Len Sherman, an adjunct professor at Columbia University’s business school. “There is going to be a lot of consolidation on some very painful terms.”
Getir, a Turkish company that operates in Europe as well as Boston, Chicago and New York, said the key to profitability is adding more mini-warehouses in the cities where it delivers.
“We’re here for the long term,” said Langston Dugger, Getir’s head of U.S. operations.
The company recently raised $768 million, valuing it at close to $12 billion, and plans to expand in the U.S. Customers range from people “ordering a late night ice cream to somebody who is doing a full grocery shop for the week for a family and everything in between,” he said.
Lee Hnetinka, the founder of FastAF, a delivery company with a two-hour delivery model in New York, San Francisco and Los Angeles, said profitability is “just not a priority” right now as it invests in customer experience, saying their strategy is a long-term one and pointing to Amazon’s early beginnings when it too was unprofitable.
There are new competitive threats from established restaurant delivery companies DoorDash, Grubhub and Uber and grocery delivery service Instacart that have noticed the appeal of the fast-delivery apps.
DoorDash has three “DashMarts” in New York that promise delivery of groceries and convenience-store items within 15 minutes, and says more locations are coming; it also aims to deliver from Albertsons Cos. grocery stores in more than 20 cities in half an hour. But its president, Christopher Payne, said at a recent conference that it may not be possible to make 15-minute delivery profitable.
Grubhub delivers items from 7-Eleven and other convenience stores, usually in under 30 minutes. Uber is partnering with Gopuff and FastAF, letting people choose those companies’ items inside the Uber app. Uber also delivers from local grocers, although the delivery times are often over 30 minutes. And Instacart is planning 15-minute delivery, starting with customers of grocery chain Publix in Atlanta and Miami.
It’s unclear how fast the services could be outside of the densest U.S. cities, like New York, or the neighborhoods where they cluster in more sprawling cities.
“For this type of model to work — 15 minutes, 10 minutes, 20 minutes, you name it — you need density, right?” said Stanley Lim, a Michigan State University professor who specializes in supply chains. “In a rural area, you can service these customers but not profitably. That’s going to be a limit to the spread that these companies can go for.”
But in the bustling city, regulatory pressure may loom. New York City Council members have spoken out against the fast-delivery apps, saying they may be breaking zoning laws. The New York City Department of Buildings is working with other government agencies to “explore the appropriate zoning districts” for the mini-warehouses. The centers are not mentioned in existing city zoning regulations since they are a new type of business, said Andrew Rudansky, the agency’s spokesperson.
There are also worries about delivery apps offering discounts that will squeeze local businesses like bodegas and convenience stores as well as concerns about the safety of delivery people. Manny Ramirez, who works for DoorDash and a service called Relay and is an organizer for Los Deliveristas Unidos, which advocates for better conditions for app delivery workers, says he has been badly injured by a car while on his bike twice in the past year, and is still in physical therapy. And the bigger the order, the more dangerous it is for the rider.
“We don’t have laws to protect bikers,” he said.
The lack of bike lanes throughout the city, time pressures and fear for their safety drive delivery workers onto sidewalks, advocates say. That leads to worries from city residents.
Deborah Koncius, who lives on Manhattan’s Upper West Side, said she feels like her neighborhood has gotten more dangerous with delivery people riding e-bikes on the sidewalk. Although neither she nor any of her family members have gotten hit, “I kind of feel like it’s just a matter of time.”
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Tali Arbel
A delivery bicycle is parked in front of Gorillas mini-warehouse in the Williamsburg section of the Brooklyn borough of New York on April 12, 2022. Gorillas is one of several companies that venture capitalists have poured billions into in the latest pandemic delivery craze. They typically deliver from mini-warehouses in residential and commercial neighborhoods. (AP Photo/Tali Arbel)
Tali Arbel
A delivery bicycle is parked in front of Gorillas mini-warehouse in the Williamsburg section of the Brooklyn borough of New York on April 12, 2022. Gorillas is one of several companies that venture capitalists have poured billions into in the latest pandemic delivery craze. They typically deliver from mini-warehouses in residential and commercial neighborhoods. (AP Photo/Tali Arbel)
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Tali Arbel
A delivery bicycle is parked in front of Gorillas mini-warehouse in the Williamsburg section of the Brooklyn borough of New York. (AP Photo/Tali Arbel)
Tali Arbel
A delivery bicycle is parked in front of Gorillas mini-warehouse in the Williamsburg section of the Brooklyn borough of New York. (AP Photo/Tali Arbel)
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Tali Arbel
Merchandise is stocked inside Gorillas mini-warehouse in the Williamsburg section of the Brooklyn borough of New York. (AP Photo/Tali Arbel)
Tali Arbel
Merchandise is stocked inside Gorillas mini-warehouse in the Williamsburg section of the Brooklyn borough of New York. (AP Photo/Tali Arbel)
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Tali Arbel
Merchandise is stocked inside Gorillas mini-warehouse in the Williamsburg section of the Brooklyn borough of New York. (AP Photo/Tali Arbel)
Tali Arbel
Merchandise is stocked inside Gorillas mini-warehouse in the Williamsburg section of the Brooklyn borough of New York. (AP Photo/Tali Arbel)
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Fox Photos // Getty Images
To order takeout from your favorite restaurant from an app on your phone may seem like a distinctly modern phenomenon. But food delivery has a history that extends far further back than the smartphone era. A pair of Italian royals in the 19th century are widely considered to be the first pizza delivery customers. And in the 130 years since that fateful time, the history of food delivery has largely mirrored broader historical trends. Wars, technological advances, and shifting forms of labor and work have all played a role in determining how and when people order food to be delivered.
What’s on the horizon for food delivery? Only time will tell, but one clue may be found in the increasing number of people who are interested in nutrition, and how the food that they eat influences the way they feel. Thistle compiled a list of 10 major milestones in the history of food delivery using primary and secondary historical sources. Click through for a look at how food delivery has evolved over the past 130 years.

Fox Photos // Getty Images
To order takeout from your favorite restaurant from an app on your phone may seem like a distinctly modern phenomenon. But food delivery has a history that extends far further back than the smartphone era. A pair of Italian royals in the 19th century are widely considered to be the first pizza delivery customers. And in the 130 years since that fateful time, the history of food delivery has largely mirrored broader historical trends. Wars, technological advances, and shifting forms of labor and work have all played a role in determining how and when people order food to be delivered.
What’s on the horizon for food delivery? Only time will tell, but one clue may be found in the increasing number of people who are interested in nutrition, and how the food that they eat influences the way they feel. Thistle compiled a list of 10 major milestones in the history of food delivery using primary and secondary historical sources. Click through for a look at how food delivery has evolved over the past 130 years.

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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Touring Club Italiano/Marka/Universal Images Group via Getty Images
In 1889, the first pizza delivery took place in—where else? Italy. King Umberto and Queen Margherita received the delivery. The pie in question came from the famous Pizzeria di Pietro e Basta Così. The Naples-based shop had created a new style of pizza, and wanted to make sure the royals got a chance to try it. So, when the king and queen came to the city, head chef Raffaele Esposito delivered it to them personally. Well over a century later, pizza is a mainstay of the delivery food ecosphere, from royals to commoners alike.
Touring Club Italiano/Marka/Universal Images Group via Getty Images
In 1889, the first pizza delivery took place in—where else? Italy. King Umberto and Queen Margherita received the delivery. The pie in question came from the famous Pizzeria di Pietro e Basta Così. The Naples-based shop had created a new style of pizza, and wanted to make sure the royals got a chance to try it. So, when the king and queen came to the city, head chef Raffaele Esposito delivered it to them personally. Well over a century later, pizza is a mainstay of the delivery food ecosphere, from royals to commoners alike.
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Christopher Pillitz // Getty Images
In the 1890s, a food delivery system called dabbawala, or “one who carries the box,” sprang up in colonial India. Instead of going home for lunch, or leaving their job sites for food, the dabbawalas bring home-cooked lunches to workers directly in boxes collected from them. Dabbawala originated in Mumbai, and has since spread to other cities. And while the essential concept remains the same, dabbawala has evolved with the times to remain relevant today. Workers today can request lunches and put in orders through text or an app.
Christopher Pillitz // Getty Images
In the 1890s, a food delivery system called dabbawala, or “one who carries the box,” sprang up in colonial India. Instead of going home for lunch, or leaving their job sites for food, the dabbawalas bring home-cooked lunches to workers directly in boxes collected from them. Dabbawala originated in Mumbai, and has since spread to other cities. And while the essential concept remains the same, dabbawala has evolved with the times to remain relevant today. Workers today can request lunches and put in orders through text or an app.
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
John Kobal Foundation // Getty Images
Chinese food delivery made its debut in America in 1922. The Los Angeles cafe Kin-Chu called itself the “only place on the West Coast making and delivering real Chinese food.” The restaurant made use of the relatively new technology of telephones to fulfill orders. Customers could call to place an order, and the restaurant would deliver as late as 1 a.m. Almost a century later, Chinese food is a popular option for delivery, particularly during the holidays, when other restaurants may opt to close.
John Kobal Foundation // Getty Images
Chinese food delivery made its debut in America in 1922. The Los Angeles cafe Kin-Chu called itself the “only place on the West Coast making and delivering real Chinese food.” The restaurant made use of the relatively new technology of telephones to fulfill orders. Customers could call to place an order, and the restaurant would deliver as late as 1 a.m. Almost a century later, Chinese food is a popular option for delivery, particularly during the holidays, when other restaurants may opt to close.
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Debrocke/ClassicStock // Getty Images
The popularization of television in the 1950s played a large role in the postwar boom of restaurant food delivery. With televisions in more and more homes, the concept of eating dinner from restaurants at home was established. Families could come home after long days at work and have their meals delivered to enjoy while watching their favorite television programs. This was particularly helpful for many families as the suburbs grew in popularity, and car ownership surged. People no longer necessarily lived nearby their favorite restaurants, and cars made delivery more convenient. Eager to capitalize on the trend, many restaurants even developed “television dinner” menus.
Debrocke/ClassicStock // Getty Images
The popularization of television in the 1950s played a large role in the postwar boom of restaurant food delivery. With televisions in more and more homes, the concept of eating dinner from restaurants at home was established. Families could come home after long days at work and have their meals delivered to enjoy while watching their favorite television programs. This was particularly helpful for many families as the suburbs grew in popularity, and car ownership surged. People no longer necessarily lived nearby their favorite restaurants, and cars made delivery more convenient. Eager to capitalize on the trend, many restaurants even developed “television dinner” menus.
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Harry Todd/Fox Photos // Getty Images
A new kind of food delivery was born when Meals on Wheels launched in 1954. The charity developed in Great Britain in response to the economic decline following World War II. Meals on Wheels delivered prepared food to homebound people who might not otherwise have access to food. The organization soon spread to other countries, including the United States. Meals on Wheels is still active today, delivering food to the homebound in cities around the world.
Harry Todd/Fox Photos // Getty Images
A new kind of food delivery was born when Meals on Wheels launched in 1954. The charity developed in Great Britain in response to the economic decline following World War II. Meals on Wheels delivered prepared food to homebound people who might not otherwise have access to food. The organization soon spread to other countries, including the United States. Meals on Wheels is still active today, delivering food to the homebound in cities around the world.
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Sherman/Three Lions // Getty Images
Thanks in part to the newfound ubiquity of cars, delivery times dropped in the 1960s. On the forefront of this innovation were the founders of Domino’s pizza. They developed a guarantee that pizza would be with clients within 30 minutes or less. The company would later be sued over this guarantee. Lawsuits claimed that 30 minutes was such a short delivery window that the company was encouraging unsafe driving.
Sherman/Three Lions // Getty Images
Thanks in part to the newfound ubiquity of cars, delivery times dropped in the 1960s. On the forefront of this innovation were the founders of Domino’s pizza. They developed a guarantee that pizza would be with clients within 30 minutes or less. The company would later be sued over this guarantee. Lawsuits claimed that 30 minutes was such a short delivery window that the company was encouraging unsafe driving.
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Africa Studio // Shutterstock
In 1994, Pizza Hut debuted one of the earliest web-based food delivery sites. Pizzanet didn’t work across the country, but rather only for people located in Santa Cruz, California. Regardless, it provided an early model for digital food delivery. It was also one of the first public sites on the internet. With this in mind, pizza was most likely one of the first goods bought and sold online.
Africa Studio // Shutterstock
In 1994, Pizza Hut debuted one of the earliest web-based food delivery sites. Pizzanet didn’t work across the country, but rather only for people located in Santa Cruz, California. Regardless, it provided an early model for digital food delivery. It was also one of the first public sites on the internet. With this in mind, pizza was most likely one of the first goods bought and sold online.
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Meri Simon /MediaNews Group/The Mercury News via Getty Images
In 1995, the first online restaurant delivery service launched. Called World Wide Waiter, the service aggregated more than 60 restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area, and offered home or office delivery. One of the founders had surprising motivation for starting the company: While convenience and time-saving were nice, he said ordering food to his specs is what gave him the idea for World Wide Waiter. “I liked to order sandwiches made in a particular way,” he told a local newspaper at the time. “It occurred to me that specific orders by computers would be best.”
Meri Simon /MediaNews Group/The Mercury News via Getty Images
In 1995, the first online restaurant delivery service launched. Called World Wide Waiter, the service aggregated more than 60 restaurants in the San Francisco Bay Area, and offered home or office delivery. One of the founders had surprising motivation for starting the company: While convenience and time-saving were nice, he said ordering food to his specs is what gave him the idea for World Wide Waiter. “I liked to order sandwiches made in a particular way,” he told a local newspaper at the time. “It occurred to me that specific orders by computers would be best.”
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Prostock-studio // Shutterstock
In the 2000s, food delivery exploded in popularity. As smartphones became even more popular, food delivery apps came to dominate delivery services. Office workers could order food from their phones to the office without having to step away from their desks, and people who decided they’d rather not cook after work could have dinner solved with a few taps on their phones. New food delivery apps have been continually introduced since the early 2000s. Some specialize in upscale takeout from high-end restaurants, which helped some restaurants stay afloat during the pandemic.
Prostock-studio // Shutterstock
In the 2000s, food delivery exploded in popularity. As smartphones became even more popular, food delivery apps came to dominate delivery services. Office workers could order food from their phones to the office without having to step away from their desks, and people who decided they’d rather not cook after work could have dinner solved with a few taps on their phones. New food delivery apps have been continually introduced since the early 2000s. Some specialize in upscale takeout from high-end restaurants, which helped some restaurants stay afloat during the pandemic.
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Latest apps promise really fast service, but can they deliver?
Monkey Business Images // Shutterstock
In the 2010s, meal kits and ready-made meals made their way into many home kitchens. Some specialized in delivering all the ingredients for a meal to customers who might want to try their hand at cooking something new in the kitchen, but were intimidated by grocery shopping. Still others help consumers stick to speciality diets. This can give aspiring chefs inspiration for cooking future meals on their own, and can help people get used to a new diet without any of the legwork or stress that can go into learning a new way of cooking.
This story originally appeared on Thistle and was produced and distributed in partnership with Stacker Studio.
Monkey Business Images // Shutterstock
In the 2010s, meal kits and ready-made meals made their way into many home kitchens. Some specialized in delivering all the ingredients for a meal to customers who might want to try their hand at cooking something new in the kitchen, but were intimidated by grocery shopping. Still others help consumers stick to speciality diets. This can give aspiring chefs inspiration for cooking future meals on their own, and can help people get used to a new diet without any of the legwork or stress that can go into learning a new way of cooking.
This story originally appeared on Thistle and was produced and distributed in partnership with Stacker Studio.